The last time we flew into Phoenix, also via British Airways, was way back in 2008! The chaos of the airport pickup was similar. Last time we got a driver who didn’t know his way around the city. This time, the Drury Inn & Suites Phoenix Airport shuttle service proved to be none-existent, we used a standard taxi instead, somewhat more expensive but we needed to be sorted somehow.
24th September we head to The Heard Museum detailing the history of native American Indians, their rich spirituality and evolution, as well as emerging truths following the forceful placement of Indian children into boarding schools. The reasoning was related to policies aimed at ‘civilising’ these young people! Important artwork and crafts help the visitor to gain valuable insights into the lives and life skills of these adept indigenous peoples.
Very interesting also to learn of the differing techniques employed by specific tribes towards jewellery making. Can’t overstate just how much I am in awe of the workmanship involved and the extent to which I am therefore totally hooked on turquoise!
Can also recommend the museum’s restaurant for authentic wholesome food!
Have so appreciated the work of Uber drivers, enabling easy air-conditioned and purse friendly rides to help us get around.
25th September, again, care of Uber, we go off to the Desert Botanical Garden. Superb collection of desert botanical plants and in an excellent setting. Poshmum a little displeased that several exhibits and additional catering outlets were closed, yet no discount was offered, and think at $29.95 per adult, this is steep. That said, the plant collection and trails are superb, and there’s plenty of essential water stations all over.
26th September pleased Avis gave us an upgrade on the SUV we rented. As it’s a Mazda designated driver totally used to the controls. En route to Bisbee we stop off at The Casa Grande Ruins National Monument, an ancient Hohokam settlement.
The temperature has dropped to a little over half of what it was in Phoenix as the oncoming storm gathers momentum. We are glad to reach Bisbee safely in such torrential conditions. We check into our home for 2 days at Eldorado Suites Bisbee. Excellent apartment with a pleasant verandah. Locally roasted coffee was much appreciated. Enjoyed a great dinner at Screaming Banshee Pizza, can strongly recommend the ‘fancy salad’ and cucumber margaritas 🍹. Torrential rain meant wading through the floods to get back!
27th September Tombstone and the shoot out at the OK corral is well worth a visit. We went there last time around and chuckled at the quirky epitaphs on the Boot Hill graves.
We clamber up many steps back in Bisbee and marvel at dwellings built into the hillsides that appear to defy gravity.
Near to Bisbee, we view the lavender pit with awe. Bisbee has a long history of mining various minerals, whichever were considered precious at the time.
28th September bye-bye quirky Bisbee and here goes a scenic drive to Truth or Consequences New Mexico. The 152 East is exceptionally beautiful, but the twists and turns along with the elevation might not be for everyone. On arrival at the Sierra Grande Hotel, we book our first natural mineral water soak. Believe me, the 350-mile drive to get here just for this is totally worth it.
The hotel doesn’t have a dinner restaurant, and arriving on a Sunday limits dining options significantly if you want something in walking distance. We head for the Outer Edge Pizzeria as it was the only walkable option. Not bad, although Poshmum isn’t really able to digest pizzas these days. The locally brewed beer got the thumbs up, though!
29th September
After a pleasant breakfast, we head for Chloride ghost town about 40 miles from Truth or Consequences.
The building housing the museum dates to the 1880s and when it closed in 1923 remained locked up for some 70 years before being purchased by the Edmund family in 1989, who since then has meticulously restored it to ensure Chloride’s history is preserved for generations to come.
We also clamber up to the Greenwood Cemetery, where Raymond Scmidt, son of Chloride’s earliest pioneers, was laid to rest in 1996, having reached a commendable very nearly 99 years of age!
Again very few walkable options for dinner at T or C, however would have walked further for a great experience at El Faro Mexican restaurant where dinner was hot, tasty and fresh and it was open, something of a scarcity in T or C!
30th September and we depart T Or C for Roswell, NM. Very scenic drive, although the wildlife that we so love to spot is playing hard to get!
The UFO museum shows signed affidavits of those who claim to have seen the aliens who allegedly landed all those years ago. Like the Loch Ness monster legend in the United Kingdom, the Roswell incident has been pretty healthy for the tourism industry!
1st October, we explore Roswell before setting off for Tucumcari, including a visit to the UFO museum. I think I remain sceptical about the 1947 incident, but I’m not 100% sure. Whatever really happened was well covered up.
After a very scenic drive we check into the wonderful Motel Safari Tucumcari . We are in the Rawhide suite, think Clint Eastwood and the wild west, melded into the famous Route 66 vibe! You know when you find a place to stay that blows you away…..well this is it. Fantastic.
After checking in, we stroll to La Cita Mexican restaurant for dinner, and this is food worth going out of your way for. Delicious, well prepared food and a perfect margarita.
2nd October and we take the drive to Gallop, partly on the famous route 66, due to celebrate its Centenary in 2026.
Dinner at El Rancho in Gallop was a cool vibe, think retro neon, burgers and tequila cocktails, just the ticket after driving nearly 300 miles from Tucumcari
3rd October, and we depart quirky Gallop New Mexico for Durango Colorado. Before doing so, we visit the downtown museum. Great insights into local indigenous history. Discovered in more depth the crucial role played by the Navajo code talkers during World War II, whose skills ensured that the Japanese couldn’t understand the messages they intercepted.
Then took a scenic route to Durango, arriving just as a terrific thunderstorm began to crack. We check in to the General Palmer Hotel , dating to 1898. Beautiful building and fine antique fixtures and fittings set the scene for a great stay.
We head to Himalayan Kitchen for dinner, who specialises in Nepalese and Tibetan dishes. Don’t think Poshmum has ever seen Yak on a menu anywhere before, and believe me, I have travelled a little! I didn’t choose the Yak but tried a dish called Annapurna Shrimp, which had just the right amount of kick without being overpowered by pure heat.
We call into the Office Spiritoreum at the Strater Hotel on Main Street. We fondly remember the delectable cocktails here from previous visits and it was simply wonderful perching at the bar again listening to the gentle guitarist in the background.
4th October, we’re up early to take the Durango to Silverton historic train ride. It takes longer than usual because of last night’s colossal thunderstorm. 3 and a half hours later, we explore Silverton and its mining heritage. We notice signage warning of bears in the vicinity but didn’t spot any. Lots of large deer though!
Dinner was planned for the Diamond Belle Saloon at the Strater Hotel, Durango, but being a Saturday night, they were full. We instead headed back to the Himalayan Kitchen, where we again had a superb dinner. The Nepalese waiter knew Sunderland because of the English Premier league….he therefore knew that Manchester United had beaten them today! Back then to the Diamond Belle, just in time to enjoy a great performance from their regular ragtime pianist. It’s just wonderful. Off to Winslow, back in Arizona tomorrow!
5th October A long but scenic drive to Winslow, and we check in at a hotel called simply The Winslow. A makeshift dinner at El Gordos opposite was absolutely awful, we should have bought cheese and fruit and wine and picniced in our room! The hotel’s restaurant wasn’t operational, and on returning to our room the following day to find it hadn’t been serviced. Not very satisfactory, really.
6th October we take a short drive to the Meteor Crater Centre where the world’s largest and best preserved meteor Crater is situated. Very much appreciated the guided rim tour although would have preferred to walk a little further.
Back in Winslow we enjoyed “…..a-standing on a corner. In Winslow, Arizona Such a fine sight to see….” as did The Eagles all those years ago when they wrote “Take it Easy”.
7th October we leave Winslow for Kingman, Arizona. On the way we stop off Route 66 at Picture Canyon Natural and Cultural Preserve where we did a couple of the trails.
At Ash Fork we saw a rooftop cadillac complete with driver at Pete’s Garage:
Back on Route 66, we stop off at Seligman, boy was Poshmum impressed with the beautiful vehicles at the side of the road!
Arriving at Kingman, we check into the Best Western Plus Wayfarers Inn. Right opposite is Oysters Mexican and Seafood where we have a great dinner and honestly the best margarita I have ever had, a cadillac margarita with a flamed lemon and a shot of liqueur (unsure what but it had a kick!)
8th October we explore Kingman before reluctantly setting off for Phoenix and the journey home. Tantalisingly, Kingman is full of brewbars! Given my penchant for such places, a Poshmum tip for this road trip is to stay one night at Winslow and the final two at Kingman. Furthermore, I wouldn’t really recommend The Winslow, I think La Posada would have worked better, it’s downtown, has its own restaurant, and earns high review scores.
En route, we pass through the Joshua Tree Parkway, such odd shaped trees, a kind of cross between a cactus and a chunky sapling in my view.
Another tip is to allow plenty of time to return your rental vehicle because traffic is horrendous, 5 or 6 lanes of vehicles weaving in and out takes steady nerves. Remember to fill the tank before handing the car back too if that’s part of your deal.
At least though, because we fly back business class, we relax in the lounge before boarding. The BA business class experience is very good and compares well with Emirates, although Emirates still pips BA at the post by including a chauffeur service for business class customers.
Well, I won’t bore readers with details of the Heathrow to Newcastle leg as most will have got that t shirt already!
Posh Mum's Journeys 